Burberry has tapped British designer Daniel Lee as chief inventive officer, to switch Italian designer Riccardo Tisci. As of Monday, Lee shall be based mostly on the model’s London headquarters and report back to CEO Jonathan Akeroyd.
Lee will oversee all Burberry collections and current his first runway assortment for the model at London Style Week in February, in accordance with an organization press launch.
Final yr Lee abruptly left Kering-owned Bottega Veneta after three years as inventive director. Earlier than that, he ran ready-to-wear design at Celine, which he joined in 2012, and has labored at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga and Donna Karan, per the discharge.
This job at Burberry has been in flux because the 2017 departure of longtime inventive chief and someday CEO Christopher Bailey. Turning to Lee is a “sensible transfer” given his observe file at Bottega Veneta, regardless of rumblings that he might be robust to take care of, in accordance with GlobalData Attire Analyst Darcey Jupp.
“He efficiently remodeled Bottega Veneta into an aspirational model widespread amongst youthful generations in simply three and a half years,” Jupp mentioned in emailed feedback. “Lee ought to be capable to switch his skill to create sought-after merchandise throughout to Burberry simply, because the British heritage model has already been profitable in focusing on youthful consumers with its streetwear-infused designs beneath his predecessor Riccardo Tisci.”
Tisci’s swift, sudden departure, following the exit of chief monetary and working officer Julie Brown a number of days in the past, marks the “symbolic finish” of what UBS analysts known as an unsuccessful turnaround led by CEO Marco Gobbetti, who took the reins from Bailey in 2016 and left final yr. The timing of Lee’s first assortment means his designs will doubtless seem in shops by summertime and can subsequently influence the corporate’s fiscal yr, UBS analysts led by Zuzanna Pusz mentioned in emailed feedback.
“Though [in the short term] the corporate could face some headwinds whereas clearing the merchandise from Tisci’s previous collections, we predict the speedy transition between the 2 ought to restrict any disruption to the minimal,” Pusz mentioned.
Regardless of his success there, Lee left Bottega Veneta beneath one thing of a mysterious cloud, amid murmurs that he might be tough, however Burberry is probably going effectively conscious of that and the chance concerned, Jupp mentioned.
“Nonetheless it’s actually a danger price taking if he might help to create viral merchandise and maximise development for the model, similar to he did at Bottega Veneta,” she mentioned.